QUALITY GOLD is a highly nutritious and protein enriched fish food formula to provide optimal health, growth and color for all your aquarium fish.
Our cutting edge laboratories and production system, paired with highly trained scientists guarantees, that every time you purchase our feed, you are purchasing years of research and development packed and sealed for your aquarium fish. Along with a full amino profile, Quality Gold is also enriched with all the essential vitamins and minerals that your fish needs to maintain a healthy, balanced and long life.
Fish Meal, Corn Gluten Meal, Yellow Corn, Soybean Meal, Full Fat Soybean, Wheat Flour, Fish Oil, Antioxidants, Food Grade Coloting and Vitamins & Minerals
Copper, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Iodine, Selenium
A, C, D3, E, K3, B1, B2, B6, B12, Niacin, Pantothenic Acid, Folic acid, Biotin
common questions & Answers
Your aquarium water may be cloudy for a number of reasons, to begin it depends on the colour of the water. If it is a green then most likely you have green water, an annoying type of algae that is hard to get rid of, i suggest you keep the tank out ofdirect sunlight, do water changes and maybe buy a UV filter.
If it is a cloudy white this can be due to a few reasons. The most likely is you have recently set up this tank, what you are seeing is a bacteria bloom that will soon pass (anywhere from 1 day to a couple of weeks). This bloom or mini cycle can also happen if you change a large amount (say more than 50%) of the tanks water or if you wash the filter media. Try to avoid doing either of these things. Overstocking and overfeeding can cause a light haze, maybe reduce both of these.
It could also be dust from a new ornament you have put in, you may need to do constant water changes to get rid of this. Substrates like Fluorite can make the tank cloudy for the first few weeks but will clear up later on.
For a planted tank 8-10 hours a day will be more than sufficient. Be sure to keep the tank out of direct sunlight as this will only promote the growth of algae in the aquarium. Don’t leave the aquarium lights on for 24 hours a day, the fish and plants need to respire and rest. This would lead to the eventual death of fish and plants.
Yes it has been proven that fish do sleep during the night. It is important to let them get there rest by giving the aquarium sufficient darkness during the night. If prolonged viewing hours are an issue, it is best to use lighting during day hours and then at night add some moonlights for added viewing time.
This is a misconception that is not true. Larger fish will soon need a larger aquarium to be healthy and happy. Restricting them to a smaller aquarium may stunt the fish growth and result in physical deformities. Be sure to give the right environment each species of fish in the aquarium.
This may be due to a number of reasons. If it is a new tank, the tank may be going through the stage of turning ammonia into nitrite, in most tanks this can and will reach toxic levels and may kill your fish, to stop this do small 10-15% water changes each day.
Other reasons could be something contaminated put into the tank recently, a new rock or sculpture. Disease in some species of fish can be common; it is not unknown for a whole species of fish to suddenly die due to a break down in there immune system. Make sure the temperature is still high and you are feeding them a varied diet.
Check your water levels, you will probably find spikes of ammonia or nitrite in the water. Sometimes it can be more simple, if you forget to put water conditioner when you do a water change you have the chance of letting in toxic chlorine and chloramines, if this may be it, use some now.
You have to wait until the nitrite spike has gone and nitrates are starting to rise, for a new aquarium this will be anywhere from 2-8 weeks, it is very wise to wait for this to end, because if you add more fish at this stage it will only put more pressure on the bacteria and most likely kill your fish.
An aquarium of 76 liters (20 gallons) or more is recommended for marine systems. For a freshwater system, it is recommended to begin with a 38 liter (10 gallon) aquarium.
They types of filtration elements described in the previous section can be used in both freshwater and marine aquariums. An undergravel filter with at least one or two airlift tubes is advisable for most systems.
Most types of gravel will work for a freshwater system. A gravel is calcareous (containing calcium) is recommended for marine systems, although it is not recommended for fresh water systems that require a low pH. The gravel should be 2-3 inches thick on top of the undergravel filter to provide the correct filtering capacity of the aquarium.
A filter unit which consists of a plastic compartment that hangs on the outside of the aquarium is another good filter to use. It pulls water from the aquarium and runs it through both a filter fiber and activated carbon. This also does a good job of circulating the water.
There are many different styles and sizes of air pumps that can be used for aquariums. The size of the air pump depends upon the size of the aquarium in use. Standard air-line tubing can be found in all aquarium shops. An air stone should be placed at the end of the tubing and placed in the airlift tubes. This will provide air and circulation to your aquarium and will also help the undergravel filter to operate normally. Powerhead pumps also help to circulate water and some are equipped with a venturi that helps to aerate.
The temperature of the water is very important. If there are variances in the temperature of the water it can lead to the demise of all the animal life. A constant temperature is recommended. Tropical aquariums do well at temperatures of 23 to 28 C (73 to 82 F). There are many different types of heaters available. The correct size is determined by the number of liters of water in the aquarium. Normally the heater should be two watts to every liter in the aquarium.
Lights and Reflectors
The aquarium should be covered at all times. The covers reduce evaporation and also keep the fish from jumping out of the aquarium. Most reflectors or hoods are made of plastic or stainless steel. If you have a saltwater aquarium, the hood should be a noncorrosive material. It is advisable to choose a hood with a florescent lamp.
A good guide for keeping fish in your tank is about 1” of fish per 1 gallon of water. For larger fish it is recommended only 1” of fish for every 3 gallons of water. Larger fish often have a higher strain on the tanks biological bacteria and filter media.
After gravel, rocks, plants, decor there will be far less volume in the aquarium. Ensure you are aware of the adult size the fish in the aquarium will grow. This will help in understanding how many fish to stock at this stage. It is no use stocking a 30 gallon tank with 25” of fish and then finding out that the fish will grow to 2” each, leaving you with 50” of fish.
Yes, following the typical convention of high light, substrate, ferts and co2 is not the only route to a beautiful planted aquarium. Low-tech setups with low lighting and minimal fertilizers are an excellent budget conscious option. However it is recommended to only use low light plants such as java-ferns, Amazon swords, moss and anubais. Some stem plants will also do well in lower light conditions.
Yes & Yes. PMDD works wonders and is another budget conscious approach to having a planted aquarium. Ensure to under dose as apposed to overdosing. This can overload the system with organic material and lead to an algae outbreak. I personally still use this recipe. I receive similar results from PMDD as commercial fertilizers at minimal cost. One thing to look out for is copper additives, in a shrimp tank these will have a negative impact on shrimp health.
Algae problems are infuriating and generally exist due to a number of reasons. There may be an unbalance of nutrients in the water, you might have too much lighting and not enough co2 and fertilizers, the plants can only consume these three in an equal ratio so having an off balance on one will lead to an algae outbreak.
Algae may also grow on slower growth plants like anubais and java fern. This is very common and manual removal of the algae is recommended. If you have constant algae problems and are near direct sunlight try to reduce this during the day as it will be a major contributor to the amount of algae. If you feed too much or put in too much fertilizer it will once again cause the imbalance and a rise in algae.
Three Types of Filtration:
There are three major types of filtration used in marine aquariums — mechanical, chemical and biological. A good mixture utilizing all three types of filtration would be advisable Biological filtration utilizes bacteria to break down waste material in the water. During mechanical filtration, small particles in the water pass through the filter media and get caught. Example of this would be rapid sand filters in large aquariums and simple foam pads in home aquariums. Chemical filters may utilize activated carbon to remove dissolved molecules from the water. Another example of a chemical filter would be a protein foam skimmer. All types of filtration are readily available in most aquarium shops.
Undergravel filtration is a simple way to filter the aquarium. It is usually made of a flat plate or screen which is set up off the aquarium bottom, leaving a small empty space below it. Filter media (usually gravel) is placed on top of the filter. there are at least two uplift tubes which are connected to the space below the filter and draw water up through them as a result of an air pump on the top of the tube. In this situation, the water passes down through the gravel and then back up to the surface of the aquarium through the uplift tubes.